African Pie: Is Sierra Leone a suitable place for tourists?

The Observer on Sunday 3 May 2009 reported that Sierra Leone is emerging as a new destination for adventurous travellers. At the time Tony Blair was about to visit to raise the country's profile in the tourism market. The paper reported that UK operators were beginning to offer holidays there. Rainbow Tours http://www.rainbowtours.co.uk/ had just launched a 10-day group tour, Sierra Leone Highlights, which included visiting the historic capital, Freetown, and Tiwai Island, which teems with wildlife. The trip cost from £2,285, including flights, accommodation, meals and guide.

However, there are difficulties. In "The Guardian" a few days later, Sierra Leonean writer, Aminatta Forna, did not believe that tourism would be a quick fix for the country. "We need roads, power and water," she said. "Speaking to the entrepreneurs on Lumley Beach in Freetown," says Blair, "I was struck by their optimism ... New hotels and facilities are being built in anticipation of the increase in visitor numbers." But did they tell him how new businesses are hamstrung by the lack of electricity and water in the capital, forced to factor into their overheads the cost of running a generator and even - as some hotels do - bringing in daily bowsers of water?

Getting there is a problem in itself. Lungi International Airport is separated from Freetown by a wide estuary. There are a number of options for getting across or around; road, helicopter, ferry, hovercraft, Pelican water taxi and local boats/pirogues. The Foreign and Commonwealth Office state that " None is without risk. You should study the transfer options carefully before travelling, especially if you plan to arrive at night".

The options for crossing may have their own problems - although I have always found them surmountable. On my first visit around twenty years ago, the ferry was not working and we therefore made a 70 mile road trip through hamlets and palm trees, along red earth roads that I found fascinating. But no good if you are in a hurry, average speed if it takes 5 hours to cover 70 miles is 14 m.p.h.!!! Foreign and Commonwealth Office staff, their website states, "operate a policy of informed choice and presumed competence within certain parameters. Wherever possible, they use water modes by day and, if they choose to travel, helicopter at night. They do not travel on the hovercraft." Why? They give a good explanation. "On 2 July 2008 the hovercraft lost power and failed to fully get up the beach at Aberdeen. On 23 May 2008 the hovercraft crashed into the terminal at Mahera Beach damaging the wall of the building. None of the passengers waiting in the terminal was hurt. It was reported that one lift engine lost power due to a fuel blockage. In November 2007 it experienced mechanical problems while crossing the lagoon. There was no organised emergency response and the passengers were rescued by small craft. The hovercraft was subsequently towed back to Freetown."

Hovercraft at Freetown

The Foreign Office advises against the five-hour car journey at night – when all direct flights from the UK, operated by BMI, arrive – because the roads are unsafe after dusk, while the ferry service was "warned by the Port Authorities in January 2007 about overloading, and has been known to operate in poor visibility without lights".

Freetown Ferry

I have used the ferry on many occasions, including at night, and have always found it satisfactory - but the official line is worth thinking about! The other options, helicopter and hovercraft, have not been of use to me as I have not wanted to travel to the tourist areas in the West of the city which they serve.

BMI boss Nigel Turner admits that there are "issues" with the helicopter services and getting out of Lungi in general, but he is "fully expecting the government to deal with it".

But why should tourists go at all. Stunning beaches, varied wild-life, colourful and friendly people and interesting historical relics. For more information see www.visitsierraleone.org/